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    Autumn/Winter Hair Colour Trends 2019

    As the weather turns cooler things are hotting up in the world of hair colour. Here I talk you through two of the biggest colour trends this season.

    Antique Hair

    2019 lets platinum blonde take a back seat and introduces one of the hottest trends right now: Antique Hair. To achieve this look successfully aim for soft golden hues, hints of rose gold and a blonde that reflects light for a glow-like shine. It harks back to the soft focus and romantic lighting reminiscent of 70’s photography and film and adds a touch of glamour to both light and dark blondes. The key to achieving this new trend is to do a combination of warm and cool tones when colouring the hair; muted gold, champagne and beige. This is a colour which will suit most blonde clients, however assess the natural tones in the hair; if on a warmer natural base inject cooler tones by making the primary tone ashen and if the natural base is cooler then a warm primary tone followed by a secondary cool tone will work better. Dependent on how adventurous your client is you can either go for an all over sepia look by toning prelightened hair or if they prefer a more subtle nod to the trend use your more golden colours in highlights. It’s a great way to warm up skin tones and adds a healthy shine which makes the look much more appealing to blonde clients of all ages and hair lengths. Ensure you keep your locks super healthy by doing an intense conditioning treatment after colouring in-salon and using home products advised by your stylist to maintain shine and the integrity of the hair between services.

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    Spice Rack

    Things are heating up even further this year with inspiration from the rich, sumptuous tones found in spices from around the world. Colour is becoming bolder with Turmeric yellows, luxurious paprika reds and deep clove brunettes. It’s a trend redheads, blondes and brunettes can embrace equally which makes it accessible to all. For maximum impact and for your more adventurous clients go for an all over gloss and for clients who might want a touch of spice, use more freehand techniques like balayage and slices to add a taste of colour. Earthy in nature, this trend is reflective of what is currently happening socially with people becoming much more environmentally conscious and looking after our planet. To get maximum results ensure the hair is well looked after and in optimum condition to avoid colour fade and pre-colour hair that requires more attention to create the desired depth and tone. For lighter clients take inspiration from softer hues like that found in cinnamon and for real impact on blondes who want to make a statement look to stronger shades such as saffron. Layer glosses to draw on the complexity and depth found in the colour of spices. This is a trend you can really have fun with but make sure clients are aware that without the right after care it will fade quicker.

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    L’Oreal Colour Trophy 2019

    Posted in Vas Blogs by

    The Race for the coveted cup begins…

    Let’s rewind back to 2016, the first time I entered the L’Oreal Colour Trophy with Sara Bergantini under the mentorship of salon owner Sinead Johnson. I admit I did not know much about the Colour Trophy or what it entailed in terms of kudos in the industry and sheer amount of work and dedication to not only represent ourselves as colourists and stylists but also as a salon aesthetic. We went on to win the competition with a denim blue bob. Little did I know how important this would be, not only in my own career but as a creative. Our beautiful model Natasha Underwood embodied everything we felt represented the modern London woman, the colour; a bold, strong statement with an expertly cut bob by Sara to make the look unconventional yet timeless. Gladiator heels were added to the Maje umbrella dress to indicate a fierce, industrial warrior going into battle on the National hairdressing stage of L’Oreal.

    L'Oreal Colour Trophy Grand Final 2016, comm by Sophie Knight

    Now, here we are again. Three years on and with a new challenge ahead of us. How has fashion evolved? How has our interpretation of the London woman evolved? And how do we create yet another iconic look that embodies the aesthetic and ideals of Sinead Kelly London as a salon? Myself and Sinead go into battle again, armed with a new warrior; new in terms of style but recognisable in terms of bringing out our finest muse; Natasha. As we have evolved, so has our model, embodying a new representation of style. The challenge is great but one I and Sinead fervently take on. Both of us complete perfectionists to the point of obsessive. So where do we start?

    Colour Trophy isn’t simply a hair competition. L’Oreal Colour Trophy is the longest running live hairdressing competition and has also evolved in its 64 years from only 300 attendees in 1954 to thousands of the industry’s greatest talents. This is serious business in the world of hairdressing and the cup is greatly coveted.

    In terms of colour, it was brought to my attention by one of my best friends Emer (who also trained as a hairdresser originally) that mustard hair was an exciting new trend hitting social media. It certainly caught my attention yet something was lacking. As beautiful a colour as it can be…mustard to me represents something matte, dense and simplistic. I wanted to take this concept of mustard hair and elevate it. Create a colour not yet seen in a single tube. I didn’t want it ‘yellow’ or ‘orange’; I wanted something luxurious, beautiful, and complex. Something that also embodied the ideals of L’Oreal and its preference for shiny, beautiful hair. Then it hit me, Sienna. Sienna represents a colour which is classic in its use but multi-faceted and luxuriant. But how do you make it?

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    After several failed attempts on multiple swatches, like some mad scientist, my thoughts go to my sister Elizabeth Mikellides, a master of fine art with a wealth of education behind her with a Masters from the Slade School of Art under her belt and a creative analytical thought process. Surely if I follow the laws of fine art painting I can adapt those to the laws of hair colour? I got straight on the phone to her. This is when it clicked, a trichological eureka moment. Elizabeth explained to me that Sienna is translucent, whereas yellow ochre (a colour similar to mustard) is opaque. There are various tones in Sienna: orange, yellow, blue. Tones that contradict each other on the colour wheel but when layered on top of each other and kept translucent can create a stunning colour with multiple reflects.

    I won’t bore you with the exact measurements of each tone but it was armed with this information that I created our final colour. We had our colour but now we needed our ‘look’. What does our muse represent? How is this relevant for today’s woman?

    There is a mutual respect between myself and Sinead. We work well together and hold no punches. We are honest about what we think from the outset and it is with this that our most achieved looks are created. Every length and style of hair was considered. Long, short, sharp, straight, curly. With Sinead as the stylist and with a penchant for giving a woman the most complimentary length and style it was decided that a long sharp bob was the canvas to our colour, the style a meticulously symmetrical yet elegant soft wave. A true representation of the 2019 woman; strong and bold yet soft and with a French classic twist (it is L’Oreal after all).

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    A contemporary yet chic look, I would describe the colour as a rich and glossy Sienna, multi-faceted and complex in its composition, the style; a soft yet perfectly symmetrical waved sharp long-bob. It is a combination of contradictory messages, challenging the expectation of femininity. Not sticking to current trends, it was our goal to produce a look with our own interpretation of the 2019 London woman, resilient yet feminine, gentle, earthy and natural. Recognition of what is going on culturally with climate change and ethical obligations to preserving our environment.

    This was further represented by our beautiful burnt orange dress by Self Portrait, with its classic 1940s cut but modern high neckline and the fierce Zara ankle sock boot with a killer heel and beaded flower brooches to add softness and pay homage to classic ideals of femininity. The make-up was executed by Cristiana Maxim, the same make-up artist who worked her magic on 2016’s final look. A fresh, dewy complexion with freckles and muted nude lip, complemented by a stronger brow and Natasha’s hazel eyes. The colour palette; from the hair to the make-up to the clothing all marries together to create a fluid, earthy interpretation of the London woman with a nod to French style and class.

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    Off we send our Amazonian beauty into battle, having already beaten hundreds of salons nationwide to get to the highly anticipated final. A glitzy affair in Battersea, where we again compete to lift that sought after trophy. This time a little wiser and happy in the knowledge that win or lose, we have yet again represented ourselves and the salon as a force to be reckoned with. Even more importantly, I and Sinead are content in our ability as colourist and stylist and thrilled to showcase our collaborative work as Natasha sashays down that catwalk once more. And that truly is triumph enough. 

    The L’Oreal Colour Trophy final is on 3rd June 2019

    A Date with Dior

    Posted in Vas Blogs by

    As Dior celebrates its 70th Anniversary the V&A puts on an exhibition that’s a feast for the eyes

    The Victoria & Albert Museum is one of my favourite in London, and not since the mesmerising Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition in 2015 have I been so excited to visit. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, the V&A’s latest offering certainly didn’t disappoint. So along I went with my close friend Lydia to see what it is all about. If you are going to get a membership to anything this year I would highly recommend one for the V&A; not only are you guaranteed instant and early access to any of the wonderful exhibitions they put on throughout the year, you also get access to the Members Room on the 5th floor (where you can enjoy a glass of wine and selection of nibbles with a view of South Kensington) and 10% off at the V&A store.

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    The fashion house Christian Dior was founded in 1947, shortly after the end of the Second World War, when designers started creating beautiful and extravagant garments away from the constraints of rationing and austerity. And boy, did the fashion house deliver. In its 70 years, the fashion house has had seven fashion designers who had a part in constructing its history: Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Maria Grazia Chiuri. All of which have left their individual mark on the brand but in-keeping with the classic and stunning silhouettes Dior has become famous for. If there is one word that defines Dior, whichever designer has been entrusted to represent the fashion house, it is Elegance.

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    I and Lydia sauntered in like kids in a couturier candy store and the moment you enter you are instantly greeted with an array of glamorous garments. To say it was a visual delight is selling it somewhat short. Each room you enter is loaded with stunning frocks; my favourites being those designed by Galliano but by no means insinuate the others were any less beautiful. So are we getting excited about fashion again? Are we yearning for the glamour, beauty and indulgence of the 1940s and 50s? For so long it seems to have been about how little you are wearing with the introduction of the Kardashians and the social media fame brigade.

    Now, I’m no prude but Dior exhibition aside, it certainly seems that the catwalk is beginning to focus on how to enhance and create new and interesting silhouettes (with designers like Iris Van Herpen, JW Anderson and Ashi Studio at the forefront of a new fashion movement) to titillate and bring back the joy of fashion; and less of stretching cut-out, viscose-like fabrics across bare flesh. Does that make me sound a bit pretentious? Probably, but hey, I for one am pleased fashion seems to be getting more creative.

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    As always, I digress. What more can I say about Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams apart from strongly suggesting you visit if you get the chance. With tickets selling fast a membership is certainly something to consider. We Londoners are lucky that we have so many museums and galleries that are completely free to visit and therefore think it’s important we support these institutions and make the most of them. Something I have made one of my 2019 goals, and what better way to start this years’ cultural and fashion journey than a date with Dior.

     

    Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams is on at the V&A until September 2019

    You Oughta Know

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    How 90s/00s grunge, indie and rock are filtering back into 2019 fashion

    Ah, the late 90s/early 00s, an era I remember well having just celebrated my 35th birthday. It was a time when there was an influx of eager teenagers toddling off to university with a set of ideals and full of young ambition. University was more widely accessible than any other decade before it; and we we’re going to go and change the world (I studied Animation at university before entering hairdressing) with the help of the pop culture of the time.

    We had had the likes of Alanis Morisette, Muse, Oasis, Blur, Nirvana and Skunk Anansie to keep us suitably fired up and emote the angst we so enjoyed embracing. That, and according to our female inspirations we were going to verbally castrate any man that has wronged us through angry but dulcet tones. Our male counterparts were far more self indulged and allowed us to wallow comfortably in the world around us, scrutinising convention and desperately trying to set ourselves apart from the ‘norm’.

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    It wasn’t only the music we listened to but the programmes we watched on TV and film that further inspired us. Buffy the Vampire Slayer indicated girl power was rife (whilst remaining fashionably attired throughout every episode), Dawson’s Creek gave us a perception of love and was at a level of angst not even Party of 5 or My So-Called Life could compete with. It was so angst ridden we could barely understand what the characters were muttering about. And we loved it. Movies like Empire Records and pretty much anything written by Kevin Smith showed us a rebellion (albeit a sedate one) and ‘non conformist, don’t care’ attitude. But boy, did we really care what people thought of us.

    90sblog2You were defined by the genre of music you listened to, or the programmes you chose to watch and subsequently became part of that ‘tribe’. Whether you were a goth, skater, grunger, indie kid or the dreaded ‘emo’; you belonged to some sort of tribe. As humans we all want to feel like we ‘belong’ to something and this was made clear through what we wore and the hair styles we sported. It is this particular sub-genre of the 90s (the return of house music, warehouse clubbing and pill popping is a separate blog in itself and hasn’t quite filtered into fashion yet, although is certainly being executed) that is making a re-appearance in how we, in London, now style ourselves.

    Whether it is slouchy, rolled up, stone-washed jeans or ribbed over sized sweaters teamed with Doc Martens boots or Adidas trainers, 90s fashion is everywhere you look. It is in modern pop culture, a perfect example being the hilarious new Netflix series Sex Education; where it has been styled to appear set in the 90s yet has all the modern references and technology of 2019. From high street brands such as Zara and Urban Outfitters to the spring summer catwalk; with a nod to the 90s in both the Celine ready to wear collection and the Luis Vuitton ready to wear collection (which has opted for bolder prints and oversized jackets).

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    Make-up wasn’t contoured in order to create a ‘new face’ with the goal of looking like the perfect doll we now see on social media. My mind casts back to an Instagram post I recently saw of Kendall Jenner and Emily Ratajkowski for Vogue and I can safely say I struggled to identify who was who. Throw Dua Lipa into the photo and then I really would struggle on differentiating one conventional beauty from the other. Matte make-up was everywhere, slightly smudged eyeliner (thanks Alisha’s Attic) and earthy toned lipsticks to take women away from the glossy, perfect and groomed looks which could indicate too much interest in their appearance. It wasn’t only the women of the era but Placebo and My Chemical Romance introduced us men to an androgyny we gleefully embraced, smudged eyeliner connected us all. The more smudged the more angst-ridden.

    winonaAnd now to hair; being a hairdresser I should probably get around to addressing this. Young women weren’t afraid to cut off their hair to empower and represent their stance on femininity and feminism in the 90s. Winona Ryder and Natalie Imbruglia introduced us to a striking androgyny with the styles they wore proving that you can still stake claim to your femininity without conforming to long, ‘feminine’, hairstyles. It also represented a cool, relaxed vibe and hair was styled to look ‘undone’ and effortlessly nonchalant. These styles, teamed with a fringe (the shorter the fringe, the more alternative and rebellious) are more evident in fashion at the moment then since the 90s itself. Men’s hair was longer and purposefully unkempt. Where it now differs is the stark irony of having that ‘undone, slightly unkempt’ look when we are more into hair care and healthy, shiny locks then we have ever been. Amen to that!

    So although in style we might be emulating a 90s indie kid we are now washing our hair and creating the relaxed, tousled wave with the help of salt sprays and styling wands; not just leaving our natural grease to do the work. However, it does mean you can get away with hair that is nearing critical wash time with a douse of Dry Shampoo and a scarf wrapped around it in a bow (little style tip for when you want to put off washing your hair for one last day). We also contrast with the 90s when it comes to hair colour; far more natural tones are in with coffee coloured brunettes and sun-kissed golden blondes featuring heavily…we love the 90s but the 3 inch roots with over processed murky ‘crazy colour’ ends are now passé. It’s more about adopting the 90s highly emotionally sensitive, inner turmoil yet nonchalantly chilled vibe rather than looking like you walked straight out of Clueless.

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    However you choose to represent it, whether be it in hair or clothing, it is safe to say that 90s is definitely still in the air at the moment and I for one am thrilled. So thrilled I might go write a poem/song/sonnet about how society is being sucked into one giant black hole and we are all transient beings while I listen to Alanis and scribble profanities across imagery of ex boyfriends. Also, slouchy 90’s jeans are super comfortable.